Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Undead Cats Wall : My Name Was Muffin
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My Name Was Muffin - 5.11c
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 36
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
4 Bolts + Anchors
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Description:
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Submitted by: ferriskil on 2012-04-04
Last Modified: 2013-02-19
Views: 543
Route ID: 110960
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Muffin!
This is a fun route! Easy start to a thin and tricky middle to some hidden pockets to a committing move. Fun, varied movement in a fairly short route. You have to be quite precise and hit the holds just right, this took me more tries than normal for an 11c-11d. Not sure of the grade but likely 11c-d.
Added: 2013-09-25
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
interesting route
Shares 2 low bolts and The Jug of Power with Power Scratch. Fun pocketted thin section. It was tough deciding how to bolt this: too tall for 3 bolts, too short for 4. A shorter guy with alot of experience was thankful for 4.
Beta spoiler: after alot of tries, I was comfortable skipping bolt 3, and it reminded me of My Name Was Mud at that point with the potential grounder high clip. At that point I swapped the names of what's now Catflip and this route.
Don't skip #3 on your first runs! You'd most likely miss the clip stance and deck.
My beta notes show it's a pretty complex, interesting route:
(clipping strategy is a big issue)
Climb to the Jug of Power.
RH dust off the ever-dusty crimp, then use it.
Keep feet slightly left of center of gravity.
RH bump RH far right to crescent shaped finger jug. Clip #2.
LH paper-thin gaston crimp
RF up slightly to the good ledge.
LF up high to the good ledge above the Jug of Power.
LH elbow-high gaston-undercling.
RH low-profile pinch.
LH resituated current hold to be a reverse-gaston undercling (elbow low), keeping rope left of arm, and lean left to make it better and to help
pull rope. This change provides more reach to the next RH semi-jug pocket and is a pretty good short rest position, and a reasonable balancing clip position.
RH clip #3 (spooky/balancey clip, and this is optional for tall people who can reach the next RH and carefully clip #4 high with reasonably
good feet).
RH good 4-pocket (the 2nd pocket from the right among the horizontal formation of 6-7 small pockets on the steepest surface). It’s very hard
to spot; from this part of the climb, this pocket looks more like a crimp with a sharp point jutting out slightly (on its right side?). So tick it.
LH high clip #4.
LH return to gaston-undercling to shake out/chalk RH. Very short rest.
LH neighboring 2-pocket.
LF dish up and left, or on the little bulge right thereof. Keep RF low where it’s not as steep.
Crux sequence:
LH shallow 3-pocket left of bolt #4. It’s bad pulling straight down; get a 3-finger jam by angling with ring finger up, index finger down.
RH very thin (crux) crimp above bolt #4.
RF comes up a little, to a hard-to-find good mini-bulge.
LH hidden deep 2-pocket in brownish rock up and left. (alternate #4 clip, supposing #3 is clipped from RH 4-pocket)
RF toe 4th pocket from the right (the big pocket left of previous LH 2-pocket).
Stay low.
RH deadpoint cross left to sloper, or LH lock off, then RH cross.
LH up and left to jug.
Optional RF toehook to rest.
RH sloper with good finger catch on topout.
Beta spoiler: after alot of tries, I was comfortable skipping bolt 3, and it reminded me of My Name Was Mud at that point with the potential grounder high clip. At that point I swapped the names of what's now Catflip and this route.
Don't skip #3 on your first runs! You'd most likely miss the clip stance and deck.
My beta notes show it's a pretty complex, interesting route:
(clipping strategy is a big issue)
Climb to the Jug of Power.
RH dust off the ever-dusty crimp, then use it.
Keep feet slightly left of center of gravity.
RH bump RH far right to crescent shaped finger jug. Clip #2.
LH paper-thin gaston crimp
RF up slightly to the good ledge.
LF up high to the good ledge above the Jug of Power.
LH elbow-high gaston-undercling.
RH low-profile pinch.
LH resituated current hold to be a reverse-gaston undercling (elbow low), keeping rope left of arm, and lean left to make it better and to help
pull rope. This change provides more reach to the next RH semi-jug pocket and is a pretty good short rest position, and a reasonable balancing clip position.
RH clip #3 (spooky/balancey clip, and this is optional for tall people who can reach the next RH and carefully clip #4 high with reasonably
good feet).
RH good 4-pocket (the 2nd pocket from the right among the horizontal formation of 6-7 small pockets on the steepest surface). It’s very hard
to spot; from this part of the climb, this pocket looks more like a crimp with a sharp point jutting out slightly (on its right side?). So tick it.
LH high clip #4.
LH return to gaston-undercling to shake out/chalk RH. Very short rest.
LH neighboring 2-pocket.
LF dish up and left, or on the little bulge right thereof. Keep RF low where it’s not as steep.
Crux sequence:
LH shallow 3-pocket left of bolt #4. It’s bad pulling straight down; get a 3-finger jam by angling with ring finger up, index finger down.
RH very thin (crux) crimp above bolt #4.
RF comes up a little, to a hard-to-find good mini-bulge.
LH hidden deep 2-pocket in brownish rock up and left. (alternate #4 clip, supposing #3 is clipped from RH 4-pocket)
RF toe 4th pocket from the right (the big pocket left of previous LH 2-pocket).
Stay low.
RH deadpoint cross left to sloper, or LH lock off, then RH cross.
LH up and left to jug.
Optional RF toehook to rest.
RH sloper with good finger catch on topout.
Added: 2012-04-11
