Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Undead Cats Wall : Unfinished Monkey Business
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Unfinished Monkey Business - 5.11c
Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 32
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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karl vochatzer
Rock (Sport)
G
4 Bolts + Anchors
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Description:
starts left and goes up slanting right to the baseball-sized pocket then up from there past a softball-sized one to smooth ledges and holds on either side of the anchor bolts at the top of the crag. 2012OCT21: A climber broke a big hold at the start that used to be part of a hand ladder. The grade should be no different, but the beta changes a bit moving past this scar now.
Submitted by: ferriskil on 2012-04-04
Last Modified: 2013-02-19
Views: 146
Route ID: 110956
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
Flash ascent by:
great
fun route! felt 11a or soft 11b (concurred by partner's onsight)
Added: 2013-04-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
LOVE IT!
I really love this route, the movement is so natural. You seem to be just flowing along and then you hit the section where you are no longer traversing but going vertically up and the pump hits you...great, fun climb
Added: 2012-08-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
I developed it...
This is one of my favorite climbs because of the movement on the serpentine natural line that goes up the cliff. When this phase of NS opened in early 2009 I spotted the alignment of 2 holes (softball and baseball sized) preceded by a sausage-shaped pocket below them. I knew there was a line, it just wasn't a straight line below them (I even had 5.13 specialist Long Ta give it a direct try, but it even shut him down). The natural line starts in a sequence of pockets off the deck and moves right to a flake then diagonally right again to the pocket alignment mentioned above.
The name comes a few factors: 1) It took a long time to develop since I installed anchors in early summer but it proved to be too hot, still and muggy to complete until well into autumn. 2) I felt like I was making monkeying moves up the wall. 3) I really like Ian Brown's album of the same name.
The name comes a few factors: 1) It took a long time to develop since I installed anchors in early summer but it proved to be too hot, still and muggy to complete until well into autumn. 2) I felt like I was making monkeying moves up the wall. 3) I really like Ian Brown's album of the same name.
Added: 2012-04-11
