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Butter Side Down - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Sport)
G
4 bolts to anchors with quicklinks for cleaning.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Starting above a wedge-shaped boulder, climb the face with a horizontal crack about halfway up. Finish above a shelf just below the anchors. Rusty bolt #2 was replaced and move down and left about 18 inches or so. A new bolt was placed just under the horizontal crack to protect the crux move and fall above the wedge boulder.

Submitted by: bmoscon on 2004-03-08
Last Modified: 2013-02-27
Views: 542
Route ID: 49767

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cjbottaro on 2014-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Challenging on-sight

Eked this one out.

Added: 2014-04-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: nosferatu87 on 2014-02-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2014-02-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2009-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars a little tweaky

A challenging climb to spot the holds on an onsight attempt. I blew it. Interesting problem to work out. It was a fun experience.

Have an issue with the anchor location - they ought to have been higher by 2-3 feet to allow for the obvious shelf stance at the top rather than 1-2 feet above the shelf. The rock is solid up there and would have made a better ending point and move. Likewise, clipping #3 on a sketchy set of small holds high above #2 could have been managed better with different bolt placements. The obvious location for a bolt placement was just above or below the arcing crack/flake since these are the best hands and feet on the climb and just below the crux move.

Some sharp rock. A run-out (for Austin) from bolt #2 to #3, and falling at bolt 2 onto 1 will likely land you on the wedge rock below.

All and all, a fun climb.

2011 FEB 13: Finally came back to this climb to redpoint it. I'm still equally critical of the bolt placements. It may be time for a retro due to #2 looking rusty. Perhaps it'll get fixed then.

Update 2013/02/27: Adam and I retro-bolted the route to replace the rusty bolt #2 and the fix the terrible fall at the crux with an added bolt below the crack.

Added: 2009-11-01