Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : Reimers Ranch : Dr. Seuss Wall : Butter Side Down
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Butter Side Down - 5.11b
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Rock
3 bolts to anchors
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Description:
climb the face using a horizontal crack
Submitted by: bmoscon on 2004-03-08
Views: 89
Route ID: 49767
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
a little tweaky
A challenging climb to spot the holds on an onsight attempt. I blew it. Interesting problem to work out. It was a fun experience.
Have an issue with the anchor location - they ought to have been higher by 2-3 feet to allow for the obvious shelf stance at the top rather than 1-2 feet above the shelf. The rock is solid up there and would have made a better ending point and move. Likewise, clipping #3 on a sketchy set of small holds high above #2 could have been managed better with different bolt placements.
Some sharp rock. A run-out (for Austin) from bolt #2 to #3.
All and all, a fun climb.
Have an issue with the anchor location - they ought to have been higher by 2-3 feet to allow for the obvious shelf stance at the top rather than 1-2 feet above the shelf. The rock is solid up there and would have made a better ending point and move. Likewise, clipping #3 on a sketchy set of small holds high above #2 could have been managed better with different bolt placements.
Some sharp rock. A run-out (for Austin) from bolt #2 to #3.
All and all, a fun climb.
Added: 2009-11-01
