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Butter Side Up - 5.11c

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Sport)
G
4 bolts to anchors.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

A bit run out to #2, then clip the new #3 in the roof itself (removes the wrecking ball falls onto the face below now), then on to the old #3 (obviously, now #4). Although the fall at the crux is protected well now, be mindful of the potential to "z-clip" between 2 and 3 and 3 and 4.

Submitted by: c-horse on 2004-03-08
Last Modified: 2013-02-27
Views: 540
Route ID: 5601

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: kvochatzer on 2009-03-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars set up as a warm up

This seems to be a short v. tall rating. Tall climbers find no trouble going out and up above the roof before clipping the 3rd bolt, however not being in the tall category, it scares the hell out of me going to the bolt with such an extreme fall I've taken below on #2. It is not fun. I can only guess that tall climbers can stay low on the roof edge holds and extend to the bolt. I cannot come close to that and hang the draw.

warmed up on TR.

Quite frankly, the placement of #3 is one of the worst placements of fixed protection I've experienced in Austin. See John Hogge's new climb to the right of it for proper placement of a bolt over a roof. I've fallen on it with no big deal on landing.

Update 2013/02/27: 4 years later and there is finally a proper bolt to protect the fall at the crux.

Added: 2009-03-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: pepperglass17 on 2002-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2002-11-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rrradam on 2000-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2000-04-02