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Demasiadas Cervezas - 5.12b

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
bolts to anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

starts immediately right of Clone Call

Submitted by: bmoscon on 2004-03-08
Views: 871
Route ID: 49770

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Demasiadas Cervezas

First off, I can't believe this route has only 3 bolts! It has a pretty substantial run-out. Options include running it out, extending bolt 3 with long runner to cut run-out to normal bolt spacing, or clip bolt 4? of Mas Cerveza with a long draw (will be slightly off route to right but better than decking).

Besides that, fun route! I like this one - it fits my style really well. The bottom is so-so. Kind of neat movement in a sea of good holds mixed with bad. Feels a bit airy to bolt 2. Some say the crack is off, but it feels kind of silly and contrived to not use it for a few bottom moves. It's not the crux and then you can rest all day so grade wise probably doesn't matter which way you start. It would be hard to use the whole crack on lead anyway, as the bolt line and the natural line lead you right. I could see temptation to use more of the crack on TR. I ended up using it for just a couple hand movements before moving onto the face.

Then comes the fun part (I put a double shoulder length runner on bolt 3 to protect this section). Besides the bolt spacing, the climb is thin and you're on your feet. Just the stuff I like. Crimps lead to the crux at top. I went straight through the bolt-line up top on crimps to mediocre pockets to difficult pocket to top. Fun top that I have seen stump many people but came very natural to me. I like the movement up top and think going direct to the anchors is quite a nice set of moves. Crux seems to revolve around 1 hold which makes it a bit hard to grade. Like Mas Cerveza, the clip stance is also a bit difficult.

It's very easy to set up a TR from Mas Cerveza. No sport clips.

Note: a reviewer wrote that this route finishes Mas Cerveza - that's not correct (though it could have been at the time? that sounds fun though and I might have to try it). Demasidas Cervezas is its complete own line with a much harder finish. Perhaps the gigantic run-out (I'm only slightly exaggerating) made him miss the last bolt and get sucked over onto mas where there are actually bolts.

Added: 2013-10-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kvochatzer on 2011-09-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars nicely thin going to the anchors

An enjoyable climb that, unlike its neighbors, never has a line.

I felt that the 12b rating was straight through the bolts = not using the crack of Clone Call to the left at the beginning and then going straight up the bolt line. I didn't quite make those moves but did finish it out by using a finger tip side-pull a tad closer to Mas Cerveza on the right (although the hold is not used on the Mas Cerveza route). Using this hold I felt it was more in the 11d/12a range.

Regardless, it is a nice climb.

Added: 2011-09-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mandryd on 2009-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars why don't more people climb this?

this climb is excellent. some good strong moves at the bottom to the finish of mas cervezas. I do this climb quite a bit differently than I've seen other people do it, maybe it helps i'm short?
definitely not a 12b though. I think it's more like 11d/12a. I would have gotten it first go, but the beta at the top is a little cryptic at first.

Added: 2009-12-21