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Sugar - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rebecca Gonzales
Rock
PG13
4 bolts to anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.75/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Runout to the last bolt; it's easy to get your leg in front of the rope and invert-fall. "Sugar" supposedly uses the big jug on Prototype, whereas the variation "Spice" skips it.

Submitted by: c-horse on 2002-03-14
Last Modified: 2010-09-28
Views: 640
Route ID: 13622

7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jb2100 on 2011-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Bad Luck

Flashed this route today at the limestoner, which put me three points ahead of my buddy who scored second place(intermediate division), unfortunately those 3 points bumped me up to advanced, so instead of winning intermediate and getting a new rope, I lost in advanced :( Climbing this was a bad decision.

Kind of a tough route though for sure, I'd call it upper level 5.11a.

Added: 2011-04-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Hogge on 2010-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars as good as any route on this wall

This route has cooler low moves, less polish, and it's more sustained than the six popular routes on this wall. The only knocks are the runout, and it was the last squeeze job so you stay off Prototype jugs (Spice) or not (Sugar).

Peeps, 10d is like calling Mas Cerveza 10d/11a. Do alternating runs back and forth on Unnatural Selection and Sugar and see which one starts kicking your butt quicker. I think it's 11b or c.

Added: 2010-09-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: sweetjane79 on 2010-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars han

...

Added: 2010-05-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jtgladman on 2009-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun

another good route

Added: 2009-11-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: kvochatzer on 2009-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars overshadowed

Sugar (and it's direct variation "Spice") are greatly overshadowed by their neighbor to the left, Prototype, the one to the right, Bolt Talk. It's a good climb with a fun move at start and a few other nice pockets and crimps thrown in there, too.

Flashed it on TR.

Added: 2009-05-31

... Read all 7 ascent notes