Flashed this route today at the limestoner, which put me three points ahead of my buddy who scored second place(intermediate division), unfortunately those 3 points bumped me up to advanced, so instead of winning intermediate and getting a new rope, I lost in advanced :( Climbing this was a bad decision.
Kind of a tough route though for sure, I'd call it upper level 5.11a.
This route has cooler low moves, less polish, and it's more sustained than the six popular routes on this wall. The only knocks are the runout, and it was the last squeeze job so you stay off Prototype jugs (Spice) or not (Sugar).
Peeps, 10d is like calling Mas Cerveza 10d/11a. Do alternating runs back and forth on Unnatural Selection and Sugar and see which one starts kicking your butt quicker. I think it's 11b or c.
Sugar (and it's direct variation "Spice") are greatly overshadowed by their neighbor to the left, Prototype, the one to the right, Bolt Talk. It's a good climb with a fun move at start and a few other nice pockets and crimps thrown in there, too.