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Flea Circus - 5.11d

Average Rating = 3.60/5 Average Rating : 3.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rick Watson
Rock (Sport)
G
4 bolts i think and anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 2.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

rating is 11c but i thought the first move felt like a v4. (Rating in O'Grady is 11d so hope noone minds if I edit this to 11d. I'd actually 12a it. --Hogge)

Submitted by: pepperglass17 on 2005-11-26
Last Modified: 2010-09-02
Views: 670
Route ID: 28883

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-02-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars roof is not the hard part...

the hard part is pulling past the pocket at #2 to hit that slot way over head off the right hand rail. It's all I can muster to stretch it out to get there off the left heel hook.

Added: 2013-02-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: nosferatu87 on 2011-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

Boulder problem up to big throw. Still hard though the bit that has any difficulty is low.

Added: 2011-07-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jb2100 on 2011-04-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Rating?

So, I got on this today thinking it was T-Roofic Direct, which O'Grady's guidebook lists as 11b. After onsighting it (and struggling, it was a tough onsight) I pretty much still agreed with the 11b rating though, however after looking at the guidbook again I realized that I had actually just climbed this route, Flea Circus, which is pegged as 11d. I'd personally call it an 11b still. A tough 11b for Reimers maybe, but as solid as any you'd find out at Gus Fruh.
The beginning is a stout boulder problem (V3 in my opinion), but the rest is pretty easy. Compared to Crankenstien (a stout 11c in my opinion) this is really not harder, infact I'd say it's a bit easier, bearing in mind however the difficulty in the first boulder problem I'd call this route no harder than 5.11c, which is the rating I'm giving it here.

Added: 2011-04-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Hogge on 2011-02-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars cool roof pull

Stick clip #2. Worked the crux (unsuccessfully) on lead a few times, separated by a lot of time. TR-one-hanged it. Crux is moving after having rocking up onto the left foot over the roof.

The case for 12a:
1. what little traffic I've heard of comes from folks finding this as there 11d for pyramiding. They get their ass handed to them and don't get this as their 11d.

2. One of Austin's finest struggled on this recently, and it's the kind of move he excells at. Comparing power required to Neurotica (11d) and to Yertle (12a)...seems to exceed Yertle's hardest move.

Added: 2011-02-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: oneredlude on 2010-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sweet Climb

Fun climb, takes a little looking around to find the good stuff. Pulling the roof is definitely the crux area, and it gets nice and thin at the top when it's less than vertical. Definitely an overlooked route!

Added: 2010-08-26