The actual name of the route is TOO MUCH COCK, NOT ENOUGH LYCRA. However, the lycra-clad author of the local guidebook apparently didn't like the reference to him or the title of one of his books. When I bolted it, I rated it 11c/d but I am tall and had the moves dialed from bolting it, I guess .12a is a good overall rating for someone walking up to it sight unseen. Thankyou for the positive comment about the quality. I thought it was good too. FALLOUT is another awesome route up an arete on an "island of rock" on the way up to the Graveside Matter Wall which was bolted by Nate Brown.