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Phantom Fury - 5.10b

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Phantom Fury is a 5 pitch climb right of SlamFire on the Armory Wall. The FA was by Jason Stevens and Jared Nielson on 8.17.06. It is characterized by excellent rock and mostly easy climbing with one difficult crux section. 95% of the route is 5.8 and under. If the crux is above you physical abilities it is a simple matter to clip the bolts and aid through the overhangin crux section. It's worth the trouble to get to the 3rd pitch. I think it's one of the finest pitches I've ever climbed.

Pitch 1: Start near a small cave/overhand on a toe of the wall. Easy, fun climbing though huge jugs leads to a few 5.6 moves just below the belay. Belay in a depression in the wall below the crux overhang. 100'

Pitch 2: Follow bolts through the dark streak, blast through the crux and belay from anchors just above the overhang. 25'

Pitch 3: Follow bolts toward the black streak above on what may be the best rock and the funnest pitch in Maple Canyon. Jugs abound, even through the steeper section at the black streak. Climb up into the mouth of a couloir and belay from bolts on the right. 75'

Pitch 4: Climb up and left through huge boulders. Clip a single bolt, surmount a small verticle step (ignore the rappel anchor on the right) then continue left along the top of the ridge and clip 2 bolts on top of the column. You are now on the top of the 3rd pitch of SlamFire. 100'

Pitch 5: Step across the chasm, clip a bolt then ascend a small vertical section for 2 more bolts and ascend the left of two gullies. Sign the summit register located in a red ammo can right of the anchors. 75'

Descent: Rappel SlamFire with one 60M rope. Tie knots in the ends!

PS: On the first ascent of this route we had two ropes get stuck in the anchors at the top of pitch 3. It was dark and we had no way of getting them down, so the ropes are free bootie and the second ascent team gets to keep them. The blue rope was new spring '06 and is in great shape. Give it a good home. The green/white should be's been hanging on the wall for nearly 2 years. We were feeling sporty and used it to rappel, but I dont recommend it to anyone else. Its bad juju.

PSS: The anchor webbing on the summit needs to be replaced. Be sure to take two 10' pieces with you. A kind climber interested in furthering the quality of this route would take two three foot sections of 3/8 chain and connect them to the bolts with the existing rapid links.

Download a topo here.

Submitted by: jasonstevens on 2006-08-21
Views: 335
Route ID: 79035

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