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Exit Wound - 5.9

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Bolts, Helmet. Bring a minimum of 12 quickdraws and extra long slings for the belays. 60M rope.
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Haji Rock is a huge, balanced boulder that sits on top of the wall straight North of the Pipe Dream Cave (across the canyon). Start the climb on the east side of the wall immediately left of a dihedral/water course. The last pitch ascends the opposite side of the boulder.

Pitch 1: Climb an easy arete to a steeper more technical section above. The arete eventually turns into a tower. Near the top work left slightly then up and right to the anchors on top the tower. 90'

Pitch 2: Stem or "fall" (exciting!) across "The Gap of Flatulence" , clip a bolt and pull onto the wall then climb up and left onto the ridgeline. Move left around the right side of the boulder and belay from the west side of the boulder (oposite the side you started the route on). There is an awesome ledge here to hang out on, "Camp Blessing". 30'.

Pitch 3: Ascend 4 bolts to the summit. Move north and down slightly to the far N/E corner of the boulder and belay. Enjoy the great views and sign the summit register.

Descent: Rappel from anchors on the N/E corner to the top of the pillar on Pitch 1 (airy!), then rappel Pitch 1.

PS: There is potential for an awesome .10+ route up the east overhanging face of the Haji Rock. It would be extremely airy and super cool.

Download a topo of other Maple Canyon multi-pitch climbs here.

Submitted by: jasonstevens on 2006-08-21
Views: 1063
Route ID: 79037

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