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The Great Chasm, II 5.7 - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
Bolts, long slings and a helmet. Two 60M ropes.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

The Great Chasm is a 3 pitch route in the Middle Fork. It is located directly south of the Hot Zone and immediately down and across-canyon from the Matrix.

Directions: Hike up the Middle Fork trail as for the Matrix. At a point approx. 6 minutes up the Middle Fork trail a large boulder is passed on the right hand side. The trail to the Hot Zone cuts right immediately past the boulder. At this point, turn left and cross the drainage bottom, then head up the sidehill toward a distinct arete. The route starts on the arete.

Pitch 1: Ascend the arete and follow bolts to the prominent ledge. Belay from two bolts on the ledge. "Sporty" 5.5, 60M. The first pitch is a FULL 60M.

Pitch 2: Scramble right across 4th class terrain to a pod with belay anchors. 30'. Leave your second rope at the anchors in the Pod - you will use it there for the descent.

Pitch 3: Climb straight up on huge jugs and stellar climbing! This is a fantastic pitch! Belay from bolts just under the summit on a vertical step.

Summit Register: From the last belay station scramble right then up to the summit on easy 4th class ground. Sign the register then scramble back down to the belay for the descent.

Descent: Rappel to the "Pod", then rappel on TWO ROPES to the ground.

PS: I hope to have an additional set of anchors placed on the descent before fall '06 so that only one rope is necessary. In the meantime, take TWO ROPES.

PSS: On our ascent on 8.18.06 we discovered that the summit register ammo cannister had taken on water and the register book was saturated and moldy. I replaced it with a new book, but the can still leakes. If you climb this route before winter sets in, please take several large (big enough to hold 8.5X11 book) freezer bags and some new pens to improve things until I can get the can replaced. Thanks!

Download a topo here.

Submitted by: jasonstevens on 2006-08-21
Views: 1153
Route ID: 79086

Most Recent Photos

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: toeknee on 2012-09-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars must do super fun!

John led P1, I led P2 (haha), Jean led P3.

Think I got gypped. It was super fun climbing though!

Added: 2012-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ClimbingChipmunk on 2011-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun and worth doing

This one was fun, but it was fairly difficult to find do to the over growth. The 3rd pitch will have to be done next time because I was running out of time.
The new rap rings are nice and can be done with a 60 meter but don't over shoot the last rap station it is painted orange but is not in a direct line down.

Added: 2011-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: ecdunn on 2011-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First multi-pitch attempt

Did not complete the 3rd pitch.

Added: 2011-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: grizz814 on 2008-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great fun!

Had a great time. Took my friend up this for his first multipitch. Had bad beta on the decent however. What I found on another website was that you could get down with one rope. Well, we ended up with about 20' of downclimbing with a 60m rope.

Added: 2008-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jasonstevens on 2006-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

As always, AWESOME! The summit register was flooded and the book was rotting so I replaced it. If someone climbs the route before fall '06 please take some large freezer bags (big enough to hold an 8.5X11 notebook) and some new pens and double-bag the book. I will try to get up and replace the canister before the snow falls.<P>There are over 50 recorded ascents of this route since I put it up in 2000. I have salvaged the history and will make photo copies and put back in the summit box. There are some great entries and it's a really cool history. Give yourself a little extra time on the summit to read the entries!

Witnessed by: Jared Nielson
Added: 2006-08-18