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Book of Saturdays - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
12
Many bolts, few cams needed.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.75/5
  Rock Quality 1.75/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 3.75/5

Description:

See "Ibex" guide. This route is the most popular and is probably the best choice for a 1st route on Notch Peak. Good endourance is helpful. Gamgle weather to hike the scree wash then camp high, or to leave early (4:00 am) and go light and fast. NO water on approach or route.

Descent Options:

Rap the poute, take extra webbing and hardwear to replace alpine anchors.

Submitted by: howe on 2007-07-19
Views: 909
Route ID: 70533

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-07-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars a great adventure

The rock on this is considerably worse than western hardman. Also, most pitches should have an R rating. In particular--the end of pitch 6. Pitch 8 had unbelievably loose rock in the correct line. My partner took about 100lbs off here. Also, the 10b pitch high (before the 10aR pitch) had a hard spot above a ledge.
The 11th pitch, where everyone gets lost? We found the correct line between the two major nasty looking features.

Summary. A fun 17 hour day car to car. My partner cleaned about a ton of rock. Our combined age--127
Single set of cams probably enough. We used one nut.
At the head of the approach gully, the last 40 ft is loose and steep. We rapped and left a sling on a bush on the way out. Also, once above the gully, be sure to traverse 15 minutes right on slabs and scree slope before heading up the cliff band--the spot is pretty obvious when you get there. Heading back left on the upper terrace (the same one Fin de Monde starts from), the start of the route is several hundred yards. If you go too far you'll find the rap anchors for the lower cliff band. The climb's start is about 100 yards right of these.
Finally, we rappelled in high winds with a 6 mm tag line and our lead line. Throwing ropes down was not an option.

Added: 2014-07-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: nt0828 on 2008-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars book of saturdays

one star rock quality, five star adventure
seriously, bring a good bit of extra webbing for replacement of old anchor slings(as of 05/08, nine months from previous ascent). It will probably be the good karma points to get you off the mountain in one piece.
A bivy site exists at the base of the route for those who want a really early start. Bolts are there for all of the crux sections, but gear placements may be lacking between.
Be sure to bring your brown trowsers.
Scaryfunexcitment.

Added: 2008-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: redrock33 on 2007-08-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 36th ascent?

Completed the Book of Saturdays route on Notch Peak. According to the route summit register this was the 36th ascent of the climb. The pvc pipe/ climbing rope ladder that is used for the approach to the climb is gone. There has been a large rockslide that appears to have taken it out. There is a fixed line (as of 08/13/07) you can still use to get up the chimmney. There is quite a few more large boulders and talus you have to scramble over now on the approach hike. This is a great climb just be careful as it is loose and runout. The climb should become more safe as it cleans up from more ascents. Be careful when pulling your ropes on rappell due to the large amount of loose rock.

Added: 2007-08-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kevinhansen on 2007-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars a butt kicking!

Ok so the approach alone was hard. The book or someone somewhere said it was a two hour approach. Maybe if your training for the iron man! It took us 4+ hours to get to the bottom of the route. Find the main wash and head up to the base of the North face till you see a home made rope ladder made from an old climbing rope and pvc pipe. It should be replaced soon. Continue up the wash till you see a braded white rope that you can batman up to the correct elevation. Then wander to the west on a lower cliff band till you see two fixed rap lines (that shouldn't be there, or need to replace them) for the eastern rapel. Continuse west for 15-20 minutes till the cliff band with the fixed ropes disappeares. Climb up the scree, then back track east till you see a GOLF CLUB and Rock Carren at the base of the route. The first 4 pitches are accuratly described in the Ibex guide. The 1st pitch is well bolted and a fun 10a. The second pitch is chossey, chalkey and over hung. We took a stick clip for it. The 3rd is a 5.6 thats a full 50 meters with 3 bolts, 2 at the start and 1 before the finish. Pitch 4 has the best dihedral crack line I've ever climbed! Take several cams,(IE 4-6) to protect the fingers to hands crack. We reached the fourth pitch at 5 pm and had to bail, we still got back to camp at 11:30 pm. Advice? All the pitch anchors are just 3 and 4 hangers. People have looped webbing through the hangers and rapped on 1 chain link. I've seen alpine Ice Climbing anchors safer that these. Take 20 feet of webbing, rap rings, and a few quicklinks, to maintaine the anchors at each pitch. Pitch #1 has origional webbbing that's bad! Don't die over $1 in webbing. Cut the old stuff off, and screw a quick link to each hanger, then thread your new webbing through quick links and rap rings. Its nice to live isn't it. We are intermediate climbers that climb single pitchs 2-3 times a week. We had no endourance. We should have trained. Good luck to ya! I'd go back and try it again.

Added: 2007-07-16