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primrose dihedrals - 5.11d

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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brilliant route up the south face of moses. Cool trail leads to the west buttress of the tower. Go around the North side to traverse in on the 5.8 or go around the South side of the tower if you're planning to do the direct 5.11+ pitch. We did it the easy way wich was pretty fun. The second pitch is a brilliant link up of cracks and corners. This pitch will get you warmed up for sure! The second pitch is short and funky. Place pro high in the corner under a roof, then climb down about 20 feet to a series of horizontal edges. Traverse left on edges to an obvious crakc/flake. Follow this up to a nice ledge. The next pitch is another amazing pitch of desert crack climbing with a wide hands/fists finale. The death block at the start of the pitch is gone! Wild and airy 5.9 climbing takes you to the ear! In April 2004 the bolts and pins were old and suspect, but there are quite a few of them. Burly offwidth at the start of the ear leads to wild laybacking moves. The final section to the ledge is mandatory free at 5.10 offwidth. A short face pitch past antique home made bolts takes you to the shoulder. A short chimney and some more face climbing leads to the summit - one of the best summits anywhere! The raps down the North face route, Palefire are all redone with good new bolts and chains. Double ropes needed.

Submitted by: pt on 2004-08-07
Views: 325
Route ID: 57561