Just did this bad boy again...first time on that short 2nd pitch..(did the first pitch a long time ago and got rained off, today, rain waited until we were on the penguins head) man, that 2nd pitch OW....kicked my butt! 5.10 eh? always said I was just a blue collar climber, well if that is 5.10 climbing, I am a F&*#%^@ tourist! last minute (rain day) thought, just had the book and did not even take a #5!
Wheeew that OW section(s) gave me the bird. The topo said 5.9 fist crack on the first pitch, yeah if by fist crack you mean 4.5 Camalot size. Cool location on the top out for sure. Anyone else think this rock was pretty sugary?
Did the hard pitch, 5.10c 1st pitch, before realizing that the kids (Megan and Jonathan) would not be able to 2nd it. Pretty stiff for 5.10c I thought. Chewed up my left arm in that small off width section as well. I did not have the gear to feel all warm and fuzzy about this pitch. You need several 4's and 3's to protect this well. Decent climb though. The middle chimney is a disaster for noobs though which was the route I thought I could take them up.