An all-time classic desert tower route. Begin on the north face of the tower. P1) Climb a fun corner, to a funky traverse under a roof. Climb a wide flare then continue to a bolted anchor (5.10). P2) Traverse 20 feet right, then climb a series of boulder problems through bulges. Sustained pitch. Use lots of runners and/or double rope technique. Belay from a mediocre fixed anchor on a great ledge (5.10+). P3) Make an awkward mantle to a stance where one can very carefully clip a modern bolt. Pull difficult face and mantle moves (crux) to a stance, then a commiting mantle onto a loose flake. Wander up and right to belay (5.11) P4) Can be combined with P3. Wander around right to a loose gulley which leads to the top. Descent: With 2 60 meter ropes, rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 1, then make another rappel to the ground.
Submitted by: jcinco on 2004-11-01
Route ID: 61368