Amazing grade 4 up Moses. Mad props to Webster and Hong who free climbed this back in '79. Spanking crux on the bottom with a fixed nut, back it up with a #3 camalot. So so continous. The ear pitch (pitch 5) will have you breathing so hard and the views... Pitches 2,4, and 5 are the classics with length, movement and good gear.
Submitted by: victorblanco on 2002-04-22
Route ID: 16234
Climbed with Dow W, a great first tower. Led the even pitches, sustained, physical, and exciting cracks on p. 2 & 4 for me. Recommend his advise to link p. 5 & 6 to avoid the hanging belay, we somehow managed to get a square know in the rope - let's nblame the stance. Took a piece of aid to get established off this "stance" and had a lot of fun on the rest. Some moron fixed a link cam on p. 2, hope the route was worth it. We had a triple set of cams from .4 grey to 3 blue camalot, used just about all of them. Follow Supertopo's directions and make sure you take the correct right turn off the long paved road. We lost three hours aimlessly driving around the desert by turning right towards the campground .2 miles too early. Claiming 5.10d on the ascent because that first bolt on the ear might have been the crux.
Good day with Dave from Mass. We did it in 7, combining the last two which is easy if you just run out the chimney which is easy 5th class climbing. That 5th pitch belay is quite uncomfortable, I advise combining 5-6. We rapped Pale Fire in one less rap than most talk about with double 60's. One short single rap from summit. Then a short double rap from northeastern edge, looking to swing out right onto the north face to find the chains. Another double to alcove with chains, and then to the ground. Only climbers anywhere around this day.