Double rack to Rack to 4", stoppers, and an optional #6 camalot. Take 3-8 blue camalots.
Start 40 feet right of the scramble towards N. Chimney at a prominent long right facing corner. (p. 1: 150 feet, 5.11-) This is the pitch you brought all those blue cams for. Jam, stem, and fight up the sustained corner crack to a rest under a small roof. Continue up to a stance, undercling the flake above to the right, and make a committing layback up to a good ledge and bolted belay. (p. 2: 70 feet, 5.10) Watch your ankles on this one. Make hard moves off the belay up a right-leaning calcite encrusted crack to a stance in a pod. Pull through on the crack above, trend left towards a rest at some dinosaur tracks. Continue up to a good bolted stance. (p. 3: 140 feet, 5.10) Walk right to a crack system, climb up to the hanging flake. Continue up an right, following a wide crack system that eases towards the summit chimney.
Rap the route with double ropes.
Submitted by: joe on 2009-05-03
Route ID: 5528
I see David had some extra time in the airport to sign summit logs! Yes I concur, fantastic desert tower route, by anyone's standard. I like OW, but then I drink Coors light beer as well. Like David said, either take a #6 or stop at 4". I carried the damn #5 all the way to the summit on lead. The crux of those last two pitches was really the weird, hard to protect on lead, overhanging 2" crack on that meandering 2nd pitch. The story below regarding the young men who thought they were on the North Chimney as they battled the first pitch is kind of stories I sure wish climbing Mags would print more of, versus who the biggest climbing jock is. (we all know that is David!)
Wow! More fun than Primrose because there's a little less stress. 3 outstanding pitches. Led the first one with lots of huffing and puffing, even the stances are strenuous. Took 7 blue camalots, placed 6 of them. The crux final move is committing, well protected but difficult to downclimb. Dow led the upper two pitches, I thought this trade worked out because (1) it let me avoid the ankle cracking potential on p. 2 and (2) it let me heckle him while leading the OW on p. 3. A #5 camalot was wortheless on this pitch, if anything big take a #6.
Having seen the first pitch rated from 11a to 11c i was a bit surprised by how easy the so-called crux was. You don't need to lie-back\undercling for more than two moves (and that's just moving your feet). after that there are plenty of good calcite crystals for feet and you can jam the rest.
if that route was in Sedona or Paradise forks it'd be 5.10