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south chimeny - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
5
all big gear, we could only find a couple of placements that were not #4 camalot and up.
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Offwidth. This was my first dessert climb and I nearly puked, mainly on the 3rd and 4th pitches. The calcite makes for slippery conditions. Once I finally learned to get into one of the chimneys, it had seemed too narrow, I actually got my helmet stuck. My buddy Adam got a picture of it from above and cracked up as I wiggled it loose. The 3rd and 4th pitches are definatly the cruxes at 5.9 offwidth. I led the first pitch which was 5.6, a big chimeny, I was definatly happy there was pro in the back of it, big pro. The second and fifth pitches are not that bad. I was definaly stoked to summit this one. It's worth the hour long hike.

Descent Options:

rappel the north face, dropping in on this rappel is definatly exiting, but free of rope issues. It's a 400 ft. blank face with one little ledge half way down, good anchors.

Submitted by: tadams on 2007-03-20
Views: 1166
Route ID: 84325

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: pbarta on 2008-04-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Lovin This Tower!

Not too bad of an approach, but well worth any trouble. The route is somewhat easy, I followed this one but none the less was one of my favorite towers! Beautiful views fom the summit!

Added: 2008-04-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tadams on 2000-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars castleton tower

one hell of an offwidth, but worth it....well worth it.

Added: 2007-04-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tadams on 2002-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars castleton, south chimney

a stout climb, at least for someone not experienced with offwidth....but worth it. the summit is not one you will soon forget. we seldom found places for small gear, this is what big bros were invented for.

Added: 2007-03-24