Routes : North America : United States : Utah : Moab : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : south chimeny
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south chimeny - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
5
all big gear, we could only find a couple of placements that were not #4 camalot and up.
500
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Description:
Offwidth. This was my first dessert climb and I nearly puked, mainly on the 3rd and 4th pitches. The calcite makes for slippery conditions. Once I finally learned to get into one of the chimneys, it had seemed too narrow, I actually got my helmet stuck. My buddy Adam got a picture of it from above and cracked up as I wiggled it loose. The 3rd and 4th pitches are definatly the cruxes at 5.9 offwidth. I led the first pitch which was 5.6, a big chimeny, I was definatly happy there was pro in the back of it, big pro. The second and fifth pitches are not that bad. I was definaly stoked to summit this one. It's worth the hour long hike.Descent Options:
rappel the north face, dropping in on this rappel is definatly exiting, but free of rope issues. It's a 400 ft. blank face with one little ledge half way down, good anchors.
Submitted by: tadams on 2007-03-20
Views: 1599
Route ID: 84325
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Lovin This Tower!
Not too bad of an approach, but well worth any trouble. The route is somewhat easy, I followed this one but none the less was one of my favorite towers! Beautiful views fom the summit!
Added: 2008-04-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
castleton tower
one hell of an offwidth, but worth it....well worth it.
Added: 2007-04-06
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
castleton, south chimney
a stout climb, at least for someone not experienced with offwidth....but worth it. the summit is not one you will soon forget. we seldom found places for small gear, this is what big bros were invented for.
Added: 2007-03-24
