The route follows a right arching chimney on the SW corner of Parriot Mest, obvious from the top of pace hill on Castle valley road. We found no trail on the talus cone though there is apparently a trail to the 5th class descent - see below. To gain access to the start of the route stay high continuing about 200' left on the ledge with a tv antenna. The first pitch starts with a 5.9 layback boulder problem and quickly leads to a fun squeeze to wide chimney. Protect using long slings on chockstones and a #2 cam near the top, 120' to belay pin. At this point we diverged from the original route - moving directly to the back of the chimney (4th class) and 20' up a fun hand crack and onto a large chockstone, 100' 5.9. From the chockstone the business begins. A 5.10 hand crack/ layback crack leads up about 30' until it possible to begin stemming. Stem or layback another 150' in a bizarre setting to drilled warthogs at the top of the arch. We broke this 150' section into 2 pitches. There is a crack that sucks up #1 camalots at the back of the arch for the first 100'. The second, 50' pitch takes yellow to green to blue aliens. We think the original ascent traversed into the back of this chimney from 60' up. Our variation allows fun, protected climbing from the base of the chimney. From the warthogs move about 40' out on ledge and belay near a balanced block (5.7). Stand on the balanced block and aid through 3 bolts to 5.7 (exfoliating) face climbing and the top (50'). We couldn't find the 5th class descent, we think the description in Bjornstad is inaccurate. Scope out the descent before climbing. From the summit there appears to be 200' cliffs for the entire 'circumference' of the butte. A better description of the location of the descent would be appreciated.
Submitted by: guanoboy on 2005-10-28
Route ID: 71284