Awesome, varied crack climb to the top of a great tower. The first pitch climbs a hard to protect traverse (5.9) to a squeeze chimney (5.8) called the "sister squeeze". When you emerge from the chimney, you'll be standing on a nice, exposed ledge. The next pitch climbs a thin hands crack up to a face/crack traverse left (5.10c) to an easier corner up above. The next pitch climbs to a pumpy leftward hand traverse to a nice thin hands crack to a ledge. The last pitch climbs a few difficult face moves (5.9) past manky bolts and puts you on the small summit. Classic!
Submitted by: thirdamigo on 2002-12-17
Route ID: 5474
With Jackie from Oz and Huck from Roswell. Great times with "good mates". A bit tougher than I thought it would be, or I am just getting old. Loved the squeeze chimney, my cup of tea. I combined the first two pitches. The 3rd pitch crux goes best low, cross under the bolt. Combined the last two pitches (4-5). The 4th pitch is sustained, crux came at the end I thought. The 5th pitch pro was pretty solid, despite how old those pins are, felt bomber to me. Watch that first rap, advise pulling the knot out over the lip below.