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Honeymoon Chimney - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Samll selection of medium nuts, 1 set of cams, and draws.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Begin this climb in a right facing corner with the obvious OW above. Bring only your nuts (both pro and biological organs) and draws for the frist pitch!!! The second pitch goes up and right back over the OW to a drilled angle. Continue to the belay. The third pitch heads through the OW to a bolted arete and then left to a belay. The fourth pitch heads left around an arete to an easy crack. Do two raps to the ground, but make sure your knot is past the lip on the last rap.

Submitted by: rmiller on 2002-06-10
Views: 1196
Route ID: 5285

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15 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: barwatt on 2001-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Way betther that Castleton

I thought this was a great climb. The 5.7 chimney is very mental (easy, but make sure you bring large nuts for it). I got the crux move second go, but the final pitch is the best part (very exposed).

Added: 2012-09-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stamplis on 2008-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars _

Definitely a wild climb. I found myself 30 feet above that piton, trying to stack my feet and hanging off a chest jam, wishing I owned a Big Bro...After the 1st pitch I noticed that I had rubbed the sheath off of my tie-in knot! The wind was gusting like mad, making a free attempt of the crux impossible. The craziest part about this climb, though?? That huge bus-sized pillar that you stem off of before comitting to the crux bolt ladder? The thing was swaying back and forth in the wind. I couldn't believe it...

Added: 2008-05-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1996-11-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Crazy geometry

This climb has such wild geometry. When we did this route I got to the top and felt something itchy on my head. I removed my hat, ran my fingers through my hair, and it felt like there were sparks flying from my hair! Everything was buzzing loudly. I yelled at my partner to get the hell up the pitch and we simul-rapped to get off that lightning pole. Scary!

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bgrasse on 2006-01-24 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A slightly serious first 30 feet lead to a sweet chimney. I found that the last two pitches seemed slow. Pitch one and two can be linked with a 60M rope.

Witnessed by: benkiessel
Added: 2006-01-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mpick on 2005-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fun route. Awsome different pitches. Can do with yellow, red green alien, camalots through #2, and 5 draws.

Witnessed by: Matt
Added: 2005-10-22

... Read all 15 ascent notes