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Stolen Chimney - 5.10c popular

Average Rating = 4.86/5 Average Rating : 4.86 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (89)
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draws, stoppers, tricams, cams to 3 inches. You don't need a big rack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.92/5
  Rock Quality 3.17/5
  Scenery 4.96/5
  Fun Factor 4.75/5

Description:

Weird corkscrew summit. A very fun climb that is not too hard with a few good moves that are 10+, but mostly 5.9.

Pitch 1 - Easy 5.4 mud leads to a big ledge. Clip a 4 bolt ladder to a belay. If freeing this at 5.10, you may want to break it into two pitches for rope drag.

Pitch 2 - A great 5.8 chimney. Takes good gear.

Pitch 3 - Climb 5.7 to an exposed stance. Clip a 3 bolt ladder, or free it at 5.10

Pitch 4 - The good one. Traverse out the spooky sidewalk and mantle onto the "Diving Board". Clip 4 bolts and drilled pins on the 5.9 corkscrew.

WARNING: The very top block (not what the anchors are around) is starting to get pretty loose

Descent: Lower to the diving board, and reverse the sidewalk. Two single rope raps lead to the top of pitch 1, and then a double rope rap to the deck. Absolutely classic.

Submitted by: j_from_the_307 on 2004-05-03
Views: 3643
Route ID: 460

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89 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: floridaputz on 2014-03-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great summit

undoubtable the best summit I've been on. However it is made of mud and very delicate

Added: 2014-03-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: HayleyA on 2011-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic climb

Good introductory tower climb, well protected, airy summit

Added: 2012-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: odenthrutch on 2012-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars BEST SUMMIT EVER!

This is one of the best desert summits I have ever been on. If you head to the desert and are looking for a summit, this is it.

Eric
www.windgateadventures.com

Added: 2012-02-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: uberguide on 2011-03-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars climbed today

awesome. airy. desert fun on mudrock. :)

Added: 2011-03-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: KCN on 2010-11-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars EXPOSURE !!!!!

wow fun fairly easy for the most part small rack will do you mostly only need it on the chimney pitch 1 set of camalots .5-4, 1 set of nuts or tricams, tricams are probably best in this mud, 4 bolt ladder on pitch 2 is now a 3 bolt ladder with ankle breaking runout on slopey 5.10c/d moves stem baby stem

Added: 2010-11-03

... Read all 89 ascent notes