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Stolen Chimney - 5.10c popular

Average Rating = 4.85/5 Average Rating : 4.85 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (88)
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Rock
draws, stoppers, tricams, cams to 3 inches. You don't need a big rack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.91/5
  Rock Quality 3.13/5
  Scenery 4.96/5
  Fun Factor 4.74/5

Description:

Weird corkscrew summit. A very fun climb that is not too hard with a few good moves that are 10+, but mostly 5.9.

Pitch 1 - Easy 5.4 mud leads to a big ledge. Clip a 4 bolt ladder to a belay. If freeing this at 5.10, you may want to break it into two pitches for rope drag.

Pitch 2 - A great 5.8 chimney. Takes good gear.

Pitch 3 - Climb 5.7 to an exposed stance. Clip a 3 bolt ladder, or free it at 5.10

Pitch 4 - The good one. Traverse out the spooky sidewalk and mantle onto the "Diving Board". Clip 4 bolts and drilled pins on the 5.9 corkscrew.

WARNING: The very top block (not what the anchors are around) is starting to get pretty loose

Descent: Lower to the diving board, and reverse the sidewalk. Two single rope raps lead to the top of pitch 1, and then a double rope rap to the deck. Absolutely classic.

Submitted by: j_from_the_307 on 2004-05-03
Views: 3819
Route ID: 460

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88 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: floridaputz on 2014-03-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great summit

undoubtable the best summit I've been on. However it is made of mud and very delicate

Added: 2014-03-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: HayleyA on 2011-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic climb

Good introductory tower climb, well protected, airy summit

Added: 2012-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: uberguide on 2011-03-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars climbed today

awesome. airy. desert fun on mudrock. :)

Added: 2011-03-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: KCN on 2010-11-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars EXPOSURE !!!!!

wow fun fairly easy for the most part small rack will do you mostly only need it on the chimney pitch 1 set of camalots .5-4, 1 set of nuts or tricams, tricams are probably best in this mud, 4 bolt ladder on pitch 2 is now a 3 bolt ladder with ankle breaking runout on slopey 5.10c/d moves stem baby stem

Added: 2010-11-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tammyvh on 2009-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Spectacular climb and views

My first tower and it was awesome.

If going after a windstorm, be careful of the loose dirt attached to the rocks, but it's nothing to get worried about. The rock is solid and the chimney and summit are awesome. Great views of the area from the summit.



Added: 2009-10-07

... Read all 88 ascent notes