This route travels the north face of river tower. The first pitch is tedious to say the least. Climb past 31 bolts, rivets, and junk to a short crack to an almost hanging belay. Please note that there are many original 1/4" studs that are about 30 years old. This pitch is semi-steep with a pretty good belay. The next pitch only has 2 fixed anchors, that requires some mud wallowing up a chimeny/slot. A number 4 camalot is usefull when the slot pinches off. I think you belay off natural gear somehwere above the slot. I'm not sure though because I was soloing and didn't have to watch the rope drag. THe next pitch climbs the wonderfull bomber caprock via face hold next to a slot. The forth pitch requires rappelling down then climbing up to the true summit. I didn't do this, it seemed a little much just to gain 12 more feet. I'd rather go back and climb the FLOW. You will get real dirty on this, the mud in the slot is thick and loose. O.K. route. Descend via double rope rappells down the route.
Submitted by: stroker on 2009-05-03
Route ID: 28788
It took us basically three days to climb this with a group of three. The first day we drove up at almost two and due to the lateness and inability to find a trail to get there we decided to go the next day. The next day we took several hours finding how to get there a first time aid leader in there first time in the desert made a good effort on three quarters of the first pitch and just couldn't physically continue so they lowered off and I finished the first pitch. We fixed the first pitch and decided to come back the next day. The next day we came out and ascended to the first belay where I found one of the four fixed pieces moving. After the second got there I led off and crammed the crack full of gear before coming to the section of "5.4" free climbing where I ran it out for a good thirty feet to the some barely cammed #3's (bring a #4). Then I ran it out another 60 ft. to the natural belay anchor. Another bit of scrambling and I was at the first decent bolted anchor. Then I rapped off that into the notch and did some more run out free climbing to the final summit cap. Gnarly! Then I set up a tyrolean traverse for the other two. Then I got to rap back into the notch and ascend the fixed line back to the good anchor where we rapped in the dark. Wild route...very dirty, probably good intro to the Fisher's but I haven't been there yet.