A very aesthetic line that splits the north and south summits of the King of Pain. Good route with lots of stout wide crack.
P1: Starts out with excellent finger lieback with good edges for the feet. Moves left to wide crack. P2: Cups and fists eventually widen to a slightly sandy slot. Too wide for a #6 Friend; but a big bro will work. P3: More fists and cups that eventually go to a bulge. Pulling the bulge is .10+ hands. Continue up easy crack, till you get to a ledge with a lot of sturdy blocks. There is no fixed anchor here, but if you find a spot to sit, plant your feet against a rock, you'll be fine. P4: Very fun and exciting pitch. Continue up the crack that splits the north and south summit, and then work your way out right through the choss band. Climbing is only 5.9, but gear and rock aren't great.
Be careful about getting your ropes stuck on the second rappel.
Submitted by: madmax on 2004-04-14
Route ID: 51213
very memorable. some loose blocks but avoidable. recommend: 1ea 0.4-1", 2ea #.75 & #1camalot, 3ea #2-3camalot (+1 #3.5), 2 #4 1 #5(new size) camalot a few nuts and at least 6 slings. 1 70M will get you off.
Climbed this route with Greg. Lots of sand and loose death-blocks. Led the first and third pitches. Didn't have enough gear to lead the first pitch safely. Did a lot of leapfrogging of cams. Hung once on the second lead. Burly handjamming over a couple roofs. Spooky following the fourth and final pitch. This climb left an indelible impression on my psyche.