3 pitch crack climb with large roof and spectacular exposure. P1: Jams finger and thin hands to wide hands and akward off-width slot section. Short (.9) traverse left to belay. P2: Jams off-hands and fist, over bulge to hands corner crack. Belay under left side of huge roof. P3: Jam up and out to large roof. Work through roof (.10) with good pro and jam cracks to (.9) squeeze chimney. Belay on summit. Descent: 2 raps, first to notch and second to ground on west side.Beware the ball-bearing mud talus cone approach!
Submitted by: gambler on 2004-06-29
Route ID: 29016
casual approach from the NW. car to car 6hrs -no rush, relaxed perhaps a half hour on the summit. Favorite pitch:#3. Almost greased out of the squeeze near the top when my foot slipped!! recommend: 1ea 0.5-1", 2ea #1,2,4camalot, 3ea #3, 1ea #3.5 & a few small nuts. 1 70M gets you off.
Got on this route with Greg and Tom. I led the first pitch no falls. Quite exciting when it gets wide! Tom led the next pitch. He decided to take the right-most crack. I thought the left crack looked easier. After falling low, he dogged up the rest of the pitch. I almost fell going from the ring-locks off the belay to the safety of the wide crack to the left. Ended up going back to the hard crack after chimneying up a bit on the left. Tough line over the roof. Greg led the last pitch. Tom went second and screwed me by not back-clipping the pieces to the roof. If I fell off before pulling the roof, oh boy, lotsa air! Got to the top and celebrated with the boys.