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Lightning Bolt Cracks - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.80/5 Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (29)
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1 set of cams from smallest Camalot to 3.5 (doubles in .5 to 3.5) and stoppers. Optional #4 big bro.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.90/5
  Fun Factor 4.90/5

Description:

3 pitch crack climb with large roof and spectacular exposure. P1: Jams finger and thin hands to wide hands and akward off-width slot section. Short (.9) traverse left to belay. P2: Jams off-hands and fist, over bulge to hands corner crack. Belay under left side of huge roof. P3: Jam up and out to large roof. Work through roof (.10) with good pro and jam cracks to (.9) squeeze chimney. Belay on summit. Descent: 2 raps, first to notch and second to ground on west side.Beware the ball-bearing mud talus cone approach!

Submitted by: gambler on 2004-06-29
Views: 1325
Route ID: 29016

Most Recent Photos (See all 8 photos)

29 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2013-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars really nice

I led P1, P3 (the left version) and P4. Very fun

Added: 2013-10-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 5starclimbs on 2012-10-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Lightening Bolts w/ .11+ var.

w/Wade ...did .11+ fingers link w/p1

Added: 2012-10-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: crazy_fingers84 on 2010-12-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars shorter than it looks

Great route, accidentally did it in 2 pitches. This is not recommended... imagine doing a squeeze chimney with 300lbs of rope drag. The cow skull is still there.

Added: 2010-12-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: markguycan on 2010-11-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars finally! long awaited but worth it.

casual approach from the NW. car to car 6hrs -no rush, relaxed perhaps a half hour on the summit. Favorite pitch:#3. Almost greased out of the squeeze near the top when my foot slipped!! recommend: 1ea 0.5-1", 2ea #1,2,4camalot, 3ea #3, 1ea #3.5 & a few small nuts. 1 70M gets you off.

Added: 2010-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Climb of a lifetime!

Got on this route with Greg and Tom. I led the first pitch no falls. Quite exciting when it gets wide! Tom led the next pitch. He decided to take the right-most crack. I thought the left crack looked easier. After falling low, he dogged up the rest of the pitch. I almost fell going from the ring-locks off the belay to the safety of the wide crack to the left. Ended up going back to the hard crack after chimneying up a bit on the left. Tough line over the roof. Greg led the last pitch. Tom went second and screwed me by not back-clipping the pieces to the roof. If I fell off before pulling the roof, oh boy, lotsa air! Got to the top and celebrated with the boys.

Added: 2009-05-05

... Read all 29 ascent notes