Routes : North America : United States : Utah : Moab : Indian Creek : North Sixshooter : Lightning Bolt Cracks
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Lightning Bolt Cracks - 5.11a
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Rock
1 set of cams from smallest Camalot to 3.5 (doubles in .5 to 3.5) and stoppers. Optional #4 big bro.
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Description:
3 pitch crack climb with large roof and spectacular exposure. P1: Jams finger and thin hands to wide hands and akward off-width slot section. Short (.9) traverse left to belay. P2: Jams off-hands and fist, over bulge to hands corner crack. Belay under left side of huge roof. P3: Jam up and out to large roof. Work through roof (.10) with good pro and jam cracks to (.9) squeeze chimney. Belay on summit. Descent: 2 raps, first to notch and second to ground on west side.Beware the ball-bearing mud talus cone approach!
Submitted by: gambler on 2004-06-29
Views: 483
Route ID: 29016
Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)
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25 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 25 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Climb of a lifetime!
Got on this route with Greg and Tom. I led the first pitch no falls. Quite exciting when it gets wide! Tom led the next pitch. He decided to take the right-most crack. I thought the left crack looked easier. After falling low, he dogged up the rest of the pitch. I almost fell going from the ring-locks off the belay to the safety of the wide crack to the left. Ended up going back to the hard crack after chimneying up a bit on the left. Tough line over the roof. Greg led the last pitch. Tom went second and screwed me by not back-clipping the pieces to the roof. If I fell off before pulling the roof, oh boy, lotsa air! Got to the top and celebrated with the boys.
Added: 2009-05-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
outstanding
amazing- everything you think it will be!
Added: 2008-10-20
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Added: 2008-05-12
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | R |
Superb route
With all the previous posts mentioning stuck ropes, I though it worth noting that you CAN do the normal descent with a single 60m rope. The 2nd and final rap is ~32m but it works with rope stretch.
Added: 2008-05-04
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Fun tower, west side approach not too bad.
In the photo I am finishing the squeeze chimney on North Six Shooter and glad of it. Beautiful tower and great route, I think it's one of my top two towers! Oh, the cow's skull is still in back of the last pitch.
Added: 2008-04-22
