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South Face Direct - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Cams all sizes, multiples on hands. Extra large gear for top in an offwidth
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Start in a perfect hand crack or opposing lay back. Climb up to a sloping ledge, continue up the crack as if flares out to an offwidth and eventually a full body crack. Out over a tiny roof to a diving board. Stand up on this and reach way back in the crack to a beautiful hidden crack, climb 15-20 more feet to a smal scree area. Walk to the saddle and then the short 5.6 to the top of the North summit with one bolt.

Submitted by: mpick on 2004-09-17
Views: 682
Route ID: 59636

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ..

The first 30 ft felt really hard. But desert trad is always hard for me. Trad 5.8 always seems like 5.10 sport. The summit is amazing but the climb is not super fun. It's blocky, chossy, tight squeezed, too much going around corners and not being able to see/hear your belayer. But I've climbed it four times just so I could bring people up it for the view and exposure. It's like being in an airplane. Very nice tower for those of us who can't make it up castleton.

Added: 2010-06-25