Start from the bench along the mesa south of the spire.
P1: Aid an overhanging corner to a ledge, and then up a heinous squeeze chimney to another ledge and a natural belay. 80' 5.8R C1
P2: Climb up, and then straight left to a bulging sandy crack. Make a hard move up the crack and then easy climbing to a belay. 110' 5.8R
P3: Climb a bolt ladder, then left along horrible rock, then up and right along a bolt ladder, and then up a beautiful thin splitter to the top. This pitch can be broken into two pitches, which is a good idea for rope drag avoidance. 140' 5.7 C1
To descend, make a double rope rap to the top of P2, and then another to the ground.
This route is much harder and more involved than the rating would suggest. Treat this one with respect.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2003-09-21
Route ID: 40434