Routes : North America : United States : Utah : Moab : Lost World Butte Area : The Tombstone : Family Plot 5.8 C1
Family Plot 5.8 C1 -
Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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wires and lots of tcu's and cams up to 4 inches with many extra TCU's.
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Description:
Details: Start just right of Keswick Lads Day Out on the north side of the formation. Watch out for weak friable rock in sections of the crack. Pitch 1: 100' 5.7 C1 Make a long reach to the first pin then aid past three bolts to a good finger sized crack. Clean aid the crack using TCU's. Pass a pod with some wide crack and a short section of easy free climbing. Continue aiding the thin crack to a bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 85' 5.8 C1 Aid the hand and fist sized crack up and over the roof. After the roof make some slabby moves on slippery sandy stone before aiding one last steep section and making one more scary free move to the anchor. Pitch 3: 100' 5.5 Follow the offwidth up and left until it turns into a 4th class chimney and belay from gear near the summit.
Submitted by: bryson on 2005-03-29
Views: 1077
Route ID: 65090
2 Ascents Recorded
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Onsight ascent by: sparky on 2006-04-22
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
Soft rock. I got a nice sand shower at the pitch 1 belay. I also got stung on the finger by a wasp at the first belay.
Scary rappel, we rapped Kenswick and the hanging belay anchors atop pitch one we re shot at, and there were bullet holes centimeters from the bolts and in the webbing. I could wiggle the bolts and watch one shift while allen was rapping and I was hanging on them.
Scary rappel, we rapped Kenswick and the hanging belay anchors atop pitch one we re shot at, and there were bullet holes centimeters from the bolts and in the webbing. I could wiggle the bolts and watch one shift while allen was rapping and I was hanging on them.
Witnessed by: allen
Added: 2006-04-22
Added: 2006-04-22
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Difficulty |
Red Point ascent by: bryson on 2005-04-08
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
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Added: 2005-04-08