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Artist's Tears - 5.8 A3

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Molly Higgins & Larry Bruce 5/76-Pitches 1&2- E.Bjornstad & J.Dunn early 70's
Rock (Trad) Aid
No Hammer!Sawed off BD #4 Angle (normal one will work, just have to tie it off)1-2 sets DMM Peanuts1 set HB offset brass nuts, doubles in 3 largest sizes (yellow,green,blue)1 set tricams pink-blue, double in red1 set offset aliens1 set aliens
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This route now goes clean. We did Tears' clean this November and cleaned it up a little too. It was in bad shape (the scars and some of the fixed gear). The route is awesome, steep, and sheer. We replaced bunches of bolts and all of the anchors are now bomber. Hopefully people will start to go and do this thing! The route can be done several ways, over the years another set of anchors has appeared breaking the old-school pitch one into two short pitches. Pitches 1&2 are linkable as are 4&5. The route (if you go from anchor to anchor) is 5 pitches long. Pitch one: --Warm up pitch. Climb 5.Easy slab (5.5) to a pin, hook to a bolt, handplace a #4 BD Angle (sawed or tied off, do not nail something in here for the hole is in poor shape and the move is above a new bomber bolt!). Follow the bolt/rivet ladder, then do one reachy offset nut placement to belay anchors. C1+ Pitch two:-- Business Pitch. Make a couple of hook moves to a pin, hook to another pin, then start a string of "wouldn't want to whip on that" placements (tricams, hooks and small offset wires) past two more pins to the belay. C3 Pitch three:-- Money Pitch. This pitch is awesome and has just enough scarring to go clean (rock also gets better.) Make one or two small offset wire placements to a bolt, then start a string of small wires in an overhanging shallow seam with the occasional tricam and cam placement. This nonsense ends at bolt/rivet ladder (many of which were replaced) which takes you to the next belay. C3 Pitch four:-- Casual Pitch. This is the longest and steepest pitch of the route. Bring a ton of tie-offs and rivet hangers. We chose not to replace anything on this pitch ( everything is a 1/4" or 3/8" Rawl Drive, or a pin.) There are a couple of very reachy moves and be prepared to lasso or improvise something to reach some fixed gear (getting in your topsteps is hard to do in some spots). Pretty much just follow fixed stuff and place decent gear along the way until you reach the final belay. C2 ish Pitch five:-- Short Pitch. Aid/free climb past some fixed gear (nuts and pins)in a groove to the summit. There are new anchors we put in off to the left on a small patch of varnish. 5.8 or C1 ish

Descent Options:

I am not sure on the hike/rappel into Negro Bill descent. We rapped the route. If you choose to do this, rap a short distance over the lip to last set of anchors ( 25'?) then make a double 60 rap to the start of pitch 3, then one more double to the ground

Submitted by: organika on 2008-04-10
Views: 471
Route ID: 92228