Lonely Vigil - 5.10b

A nice relaxing day after Moses, wrapped it up following Dow up Bloody Knees.
Led the stembox and summit. Best to belay top of first pitch on a good ledge, it gives an obvious stance and lets whoever gets the stembox have a decent sized lead. Don't know why those anchor bolts are there anyway, we rapped from atop p. 2 to the ground with double 60m cords. Look for great small wires above the bolts for pro. Stemming at 5'5" made me feel like I was on an easier El Matador. Lookout for the last move to the anchors on this pitch - yikes! Summit topropes from a high yellow Alien in a sandy horizontal.

Really stellar route. Def. recommended. The Climbing Utah book is way off, 2nd pitch is about 30 feet and 3rd is about 25 ft to the left to belay at the rap anchors (new and shiny bolts). Then 5.8 to an achor and onto the capstone. With a #2 camalot and 1.5 equivalent cam equalized, you can easily protect the summit moves. 1 rap from rap anchors to ground with 2 60m.

No comment

this route was awsome! i will definitely do it again, and would highly recommend it. the climbing was great and the top was not as hard as we thought it would be. for the top pitch it looked like you could fit a cam in under the cap stone, although we did not.

No comment