Dreamspeaker
About Dreamspeaker:
Dreamspeaker is the slender spire on the right edge of a promotory in Texas Canyon To approach, drive about 3.5 miles up the dirt road to where the road gets very bad. 2WD can usually make it this far, and there is an excellent campsite just before the road deteriorates. Hike north up some sandstone slabs a few hundred feet to an overlook - Dreamspeaker should be visible in the canyon below. To approach, rap in leaving a line fixed to jug back out. Bushwhack down to a bench which is followed around the side canyon to the base of the tower. Keep traversing all the way around until it is possible to scramble up 4th class slabs to the notch between Dreamspeaker and the unnamed tower behind it. A double rope rap reaches the initial ledge. 60 meter ropes are nice - 55 meter ropes are mandatory. The approach is arduous - especially the jug back out at the end of a long day. |
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Rock Type: | Sandstone |
Type of Climbing: | Trad |
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Routes
SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. | Rating | Route | Difficulty | Ascents |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | South Face | 5.11c | 0 |