Onsighted this on my birthday made my weekend super fun good to see a little improvement from time to time .4 camalots and yellow tcu work well plug in a bomber .4 and head for the lock above the chains
line, although a little short it definitely packs a lot of climbing into 40 feet. Ended up dogging it right after starting into the upper crux. I have some nice flappers on my index and middle fingers to prove this one is a little abrasive in places. I think the crux is almost green Alien size now..
Been wanting to climb this line for 16 years. Belayed a friend/mentor on it while he aided it. Tried to pull the moves on the resulting top-rope and didn't get far. I was a novice climber at the time. This time was perfect. Good weather. The climb was in the shade. Thought I would have to leapfrog pieces about 2/3 of the way up. Didn't have to. Made due with the pieces that I had. Almost peeled off near the top due to my feet skating off a small sloping ledge. Sank my fingertips into the crack harder and had to grab the chains. What a great feeling! I'm calling it an onsight because of the passage of time.