Trad: Full rack, nothing bigger than a #3 cam is necessary
This route follows the top of the fairly obvious South West ridge line. The first five to six pitches are about 5.5 and lower, while not all parties will rope up for all of these pitches, from the very beginning there is significant exposure on both sides and an unprotected fall from just about anywhere on this route would result in a closed casket. The first 5.7 pitch comes in an awesome crack system that is immediately preceded by a move that crosses over a massive void on the South face. The next 5.7 pitch is the most exposed as it traverses across the completely vertical South face about 2000 feet off the deck and ends on a big ledge that leads to the last two pitches on the final spire; the last two pitches felt like 5.7 but there are multiple lines at varying degrees of difficulty. From the last pitch itís about a 50 meter traversing scramble to the top. The top of London Spire sits at about 8000 feet and from the car gains about 3500 total feet. I don't know why more people don't climb here, the protection was bomber and there was less loose rock than I expected.
There are three ways to descend, all of which start by down-climbing or rapping off the East face (70 to 100 feet of about 5.2- 5.3- nothing too difficult). The fastest and most common route then goes down the steep South facing talus slope to the boulder
Submitted by: fancypants on 2008-09-06
Last Modified: 2010-08-23
Route ID: 80159
This is a great route with a little bit of everything for beginning/intermediate climbers wanting to feel protected while still getting plenty of exposure. It is a very strenuous hike-climb that took our party of 3 a little over 13 hours car to car. For one climber in our group this was his first multi-pitch climb. The 5.7 traverse over the 2000 foot South Face was definitely the crux for our group. Regarding parking, there is a paved road just North of 655 S that goes to a small rock quarry. Park just below the gate at a pull-out, walk past the gate to where the paved road turns into dirt and heads south. That is where we started the hike up. All lines lead into a common ridge that becomes the Southwest Ridge of London Spire.