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Coalpit Gulch

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About Coalpit Gulch:

This gulch full of rock is located southwest of Pentapitch buttress.

You can spot the prow of the upper gulch if you park at the base of the private driveway across from Pentapitch and gaze up the drainage. It's the big prow on the right (West).

The approach is a decent hike, be sure to observe the cool air coming out of the base of the large granite talus field. (Theories of origin include, an ice cave, ancient glacial ice buried by the talus, or melted snow that freezes due to an "igloo effect". We hiked up in 100 degree F weather and still observed ice under the talus.)

To get to the gulch, hike to the base of Pentapitch (through the granite talus field - keep angling up and West through the talus) then head up SW about 500 feet.

As of 1994 here are the names of the sport routes on the West facing side (named "The Industrial Wall"), going left to right (North to South):
- Maid in America - 5.10a (Rated 5.10b in a later guidebook)
- Assembly Line - 5.7 (bolted variation to Maid in America)
- White Collar Redneck - 5.11a (Rated 5.11b in a later guidebook)
- Hidden Agenda - 5.10a (Shares anchor with WCR, Rated 5.10b in a later guidebook)
- Union Dues - 5.10a (Rated 5.10b in a later guidebook)
- Benson Bolt - 5.12b (joins Union Dues after 5 bolts)
- Wage Slave - 5.11d
- Ignominious Demise - 5.10a (Rated 5.10b in a later guidebook)
- Hoffa Finger - 5.9 (Should be 5.9++)
- Loading Dock - 5.9+
- Conveyor Belt - 5.6
- Blast Furnace - 5.9
- Like a Virgin - 5.10X - Not included in route descriptions, 600 feet up from Blast Furnace. (Good Luck)

Industrial Wall FA's: Jim Reynolds, Mark Hadnot, Lance Bateman, Shane Dunleavy, Tony Calderone, Steve Nichol, Shaun Shakib, Brian Smoot and Bill Robins (RIP Bill.)

Thunderluck and other wild routes are located way up the gulch. Expect at least a 3 1/2 hour hike. (Keep heading South.)
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Granite
Type of Climbing: Sport/Trad
Sun Aspect:


SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
5 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Maid in America 5.10a 2
10 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Assembly Line 5.7 3
15 Average Rating = 0.00/5 White Collar Redneck 5.11a 1
20 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Hidden Agenda 5.10a 1
20 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Union Dues 5.10a 1
25 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Benson Bolt 5.12b 1
30 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Wage Slave 5.11d 1
35 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Ignominious Demise 5.10a 1
40 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Hoffa Finger 5.9 4
45 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Loading Dock 5.9 2
50 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Conveyor Belt 5.6 2
55 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Blast Furnace. 5.9 2
100 Average Rating = 0.00/5 ThunderLuck 5.8 0