Routes : North America : United States : Utah : Salt Lake - Utah Counties : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb : Standard Thumb - ex-squeeze me traverse
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Standard Thumb - ex-squeeze me traverse - 5.9
Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
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Description:
I wasn't the first to climb it....(so I shouldn't name it) but might as well tell you about it. I hate chimneys... but, I really hate squeeze chimneys. From the chockstone belay in the trough you can climb up to a small flake. After placing a piece, climb out of the trough and traverse accross thin/loose friction to the 5.9R groove and finish the pitch. The friction is thin and the rock isn't very good, but it beats a squeeze chimney anyday. Difficulty is only an estimate, and requires a second / third opinion.
Submitted by: k9rocko on 2002-07-30
Views: 648
Route ID: 21230
2 Ascents Recorded
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Hang Dog ascent by:
Ascent Note
hAVEN\'T DONE IT BUT K9ROCKO LACKS DISIPLINE AS THIS (STANDERD THUMB)IS A FINE CHIMMINEY, ITS ALL IN THE TECHNICE MAN
Added: 2002-10-08
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
On my first failed attempt of the thumb, my partner leading up the trough was looking very unhappy...... Finally, he said "SLACK" and started accross some scabby friction.....<p>
It wasn't until I followed him that I realized that he had nothing to protect the chimney, and was forced to climb to another route he could protect. <p>
With hindsight, I agree this is the best option. Squeeze chimneys are fine if you like offwidths and have big-bros.... but otherwise offwidths are like rotten gypsy armpits.
It wasn't until I followed him that I realized that he had nothing to protect the chimney, and was forced to climb to another route he could protect. <p>
With hindsight, I agree this is the best option. Squeeze chimneys are fine if you like offwidths and have big-bros.... but otherwise offwidths are like rotten gypsy armpits.
Witnessed by: alpinerocket
Added: 2002-07-28
Added: 2002-07-28
