Routes : North America : United States : Utah : Salt Lake - Utah Counties : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb : Standard Thumb
Standard Thumb - 5.7
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock
A set of cams to #4 camalot and a set of stoppers
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Description:
The easiest route on the thumb, I can't remember how many pitches, probably 6-8. Some good climbing, but lots of grovelling down low. But its a good/moderate way to get up the thumb. Route finding ability a must.
Submitted by: benjo on 2001-10-12
Views: 997
Route ID: 5009
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13 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 13 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | ![]() |
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| Scenery | ![]() |
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Misery loves company
we climbed the nose, tried to climbed the thumb, and ended up climbing the ass. We got lost immediately due to a set of bolt anchors at the base of the first pitch. This threw us off by one pitch for the rest of the climb. We were off route constantly. We ended up on S-Crack, realized it was too hard, rappelled, down climbed back on route, only to have more route finding difficulties higher up. Overall we climbed pitch one (really zero), two (really one), tree (really two), and four (really three). Expect to grovel on the real pitch two by dynoing from tree to tree. No need for much gear at the beginning because there are rap slings everywhere due to constant bailing. Our true mistake was not scrambling high enough near the plumb line wall. After reaching lunch ledge we ate our 8 hour old egg McMuffins and rappelled down. Good times.
Added: 2011-07-29
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
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Winter or spring?
Climbed to lunch ledge via S-crack. Aided through the crux. Chimneys had ice and the troughs full of snow. Left some booty on the last bolt for who ever is next.
Added: 2011-02-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
shorts in march
we did it in shorts and windbreakers in March. Topped out just before sunset and proceeded on an epic 8 hour-single-headlamp-inthesnow-in-chacos descent. Puts this whole "climbing" thing into perspective.
Added: 2008-03-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Scary!!
Probably the most "out there" I have ever felt in my life, an adventure for sure. We did the Indecent Exposure Variation, which allegedly avoids some unpleasantries in favor of some fun tree climbing.
I had a 4.5 camalot, and was hella glad on the trough and squeeze pitches. Bring it if you have it, and are timid on off-widths.
The descent is wild, but really fun in a sick way. I am ready to go do this one again, after two years to forget about it.
I had a 4.5 camalot, and was hella glad on the trough and squeeze pitches. Bring it if you have it, and are timid on off-widths.
The descent is wild, but really fun in a sick way. I am ready to go do this one again, after two years to forget about it.
Added: 2007-08-27
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Hot in July
Bring extra water in the summer, the descent sucks!
Added: 2007-08-23





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