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Black Magic Woman - 5.11b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Christian Burrell & Tristan Higbee
Rock (Trad) (Sport) (Toprope)
PG13
1
5 bolts, then runout to chains. Easy to set up top-rope with some scrambling up the back side of the cliff.
30
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

This is the right arete/side of the tall orange quartzite slab (with the little cave behind it). The first 2 bolts are easy, then a difficult 11b/c crux, followed by an easy, but dangerous run-out to the chains (if leading). If you are shorter, you may find it to be 11c, using the left hand on a bad arete pinch (with your feet up high) through the crux. If you are taller, you may find it to be 11b (once you figure out that the left arete pinch is the hard way to do it -instead- get up high on the big undercling/sidepull, and then reach down to your far right to the right arete, and try not to do a barndoor-swing. Top-roping takes quite a toll on your rope, rubbing it against the edge of the rock. You may want to try using 2 long, independent runners for top-roping.

Submitted by: briankorale on 2009-06-17
Views: 445
Route ID: 98025

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: criscokid on 2007-03-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FA info

We were working a new variation on the Black Rose slab itself and noticed the holds on the edge of the block. We ran back to the car and got the drill and had this guy ready to go within 30 minutes or so. We then had to leave for some reason (I cannot remember why) and come back. When we came back we were worried when we saw someone working on the route! Luckily, they quit after we got back to the base. We considered adding a bolt to the upper slab but the flake seemed too thin to take a bolt safely. Plus it was so easy, we decided that it wasn't worth it. But we are having second thoughts now and might go add one soon.
I have heard about a different sequence using the right side (as described above) but we couldn't make it work on the FA and the arete pinch made so much more sense.

Added: 2009-08-15