Starts up the face 75 feet (23m) left of Jam Crack. Base is more level than at Jam Crack, right of where a pair of diagonal cracks hit the ground, just left of a small vegetated crack. The guide lists this as 3 pitches, 5.6R, 5.5R, 5.5R. Since then someone has added 4 new sets of bolts making an almost even 5 pitches. Pitch length approx 100 ft (30m), 100 ft (30m), 110 ft (33m), 100 ft (30m), 85 feet (26m). Runout face sections have been bolted, no pitches are R anymore.
Rap or very long walkoff, Recommend a 70m rope or two rope rappel or you'll come up 2 meters short on the 3rd rap with a 60m rope.
Submitted by: mgoodro on 2008-07-24
Route ID: 94923
You can't ask for much more in the 5.5-5.6 range than what this climb delivers. Pitches 1, 2, and 5 are excellent, solid climbing. Getting nearly 1000' off the valley floor is invigorating. The vigorous approach keeps a lot of people away, I've yet to see another group here. I was braced for 3 long pitches of poor (R) protection, so I was very surprised (and a little disappointed) to see that the runout sections have all been bolted. Having enjoyed the shiny new hardware on Jam Crack I wasn't surprised that the belay stations were bolted, but I was surprised to find the route broken into 5 pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 4-5 can be combined, pitch 3 is too long to combine using a 60m rope (I had to build an anchor 10 feet shy of the third station). I led on two ropes and seconded two climbers. Rope drag was only noticeable when combining pitches.