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South of the Corner - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


A variation start to either of the above routes. The first pitch climbs just south of the NW corner of Sundial Peak. The second pirtch can follow a more direct line above (more difficult), or traverse south towards a coner system, which can be followed, more or less, to the large ledge half way up the wall. Finish via a North Face Route, the last two pitches of The Eleventh Hour, or your own creation.

Submitted by: timpanogos on 2002-08-01
Views: 1006
Route ID: 21359

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kennoyce on 2008-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome Moderate Route

Very fun route, for anyone wanting to try it, I linked the first two pitches (190') together. There was very minimal protection until what is considered the second pitch, but the first pitch is so easy protection really isn't necessary. The Third pitch joins the North Face Route, and has really good pro, I went to the left of the big roof, and set my belay at the highest of the ledges encountered before a steep section. For the fourth pitch I went straight up the steep crack (5.7) to a ledge with slings for rapping, and then traversed 15 feet to the left across the north face to join another great crack system which I took to the top. At the top there are many boulders which are slung for the decent. I only had one 60 meter rope with me for repelling, and although it is a bit difficult it is possible with a 60 meter rope (much easier with a 70 meter). The first repel is 95 feet to the previously mentioned ledge with the slung boulder as an anchor. The second repel is 110 feet to the obvious tree that can be seen (as I only had a 60 meter rope, I repelled to the end of my rope, and downclimbed the additional easy 5.1 section to the tree anchor). The third repel heads to the obvious detached pillar to the left, and just left of this pillar there is a slung horn for an anchor (about 90'). For the final repel with a sixty meter rope, once again I had to repel to the end of my rope (still a good 50 feet off the ground) then tension traverse to the right to an obvious ledge. Because of the slope of the ground the right side of this ledge is only 15 feet of 5.2 downclimbing to get to the ground, so pull your rope here, and downclimb the rest of the way. It would obviously be much easier with two ropes, but then you have to haul two ropes the steep 3 1/2 miles to the climb. Overall I enjoyed the route immensely and would recomend it to anyone. Be sure to wear a hard hat as there are many loose rocks on ledges.

Added: 2008-07-07