Routes : North America : United States : Utah : Salt Lake - Utah Counties : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial Peak : The Eleventh Hour
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The Eleventh Hour - 5.8
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Rock
Standard rack to one #3 Camalot. Nothing bigger needed.
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Description:
Start pretty much anywhere on or near the west side of the N. Face. Pitch 1-2 combined. Ascend non-descript broken face with sloper holds 190ft. to large ledge. This combines pitches 1 & 2. Belay from huge slung boulder and stoppers on ledge. Move belay right (W) about 60ft. to end of ledge below huge, obvious corner system capped by a roof. P3-Climb this easy corner and go left at the roof, up a nice corner. Belay on obvious ledge after topping out the corner. P4-Climb nice .5" left leaning finger crack to hand rail. Go slightly right and up steeper rock to small ledge. Traverse ledge right 10 feet to nice crack in corner. Climb this corner to shale ledge and belay. Traverse shale ledge back left (east) to 4th class terrain and summit after 40 feet.
Submitted by: ullr on 2004-08-12
Views: 340
Route ID: 21358
Most Recent Photo
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7 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 7 ascent notes
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| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
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| Rock Quality |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
super good last pitch var.
After the obivous corner pitch we ended up belaying on a ledge further left and down from the normal belay spot which had some webbing (attached to what i don't know) for an anchor. It was my lead and i tried to get back on route, but rope drag became an issue, so i back cleaned a couple pieces and stepped 5' left of the prominent arete onto the N. face to an extremely sexy handcrack. the line went plumb straight from here to the top... at times looking somewhat improbable ( to good to be true), but there was adequate pro the whole way with only one slightly thin section.
Sustained 5.9 at 90 degrees, one micro roof, good exposure, good rock, on a much cleaner looking face then the rest of the route--I highly recommend it.
After toping out the obvious corner (p3) wonder to the left to recon it; locate the sexy handcrack left of arete. the hc doesn't look like it'll run you all the way to the top... it does! Hop on it and enjoy.
Sustained 5.9 at 90 degrees, one micro roof, good exposure, good rock, on a much cleaner looking face then the rest of the route--I highly recommend it.
After toping out the obvious corner (p3) wonder to the left to recon it; locate the sexy handcrack left of arete. the hc doesn't look like it'll run you all the way to the top... it does! Hop on it and enjoy.
Added: 2009-06-22
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2006-08-31
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Ascent Note
Two Stars!! Tremendous setting, mostly good rock and good pro, but there is some choss, especially on the ledges! Really fun climbing!!
Witnessed by: P. Gram
Added: 2004-08-22
Added: 2004-08-22
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Top Rope ascent by:
Ascent Note
neat route, sustained
Added: 2004-08-22
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Ascent Note
Use ullr's route description it is right on the money. Awsome route with killer exposure. Pro was not so good on the first pitch but it got better after that.
Witnessed by: spacemanzz
Added: 2004-08-21
Added: 2004-08-21
