Enter the Dragon climbs the long and varied corner system to the left of Valentine Crack. To access the obvious, right-facing corner, climb any one of three approach pitches described below. Once beneath the steep, streaked green wall, layback and jam your way up the splitter, fist-to-hand crack to a roof. Undercling right along flakes to a small alcove--home to a decent-sized, rectangular detached block. Move right--past the block--and to the start of a steep ramp. Tiptoe past a slabby bulge** to a stance, then through a section of sustained, undercling-lieback moves to reach yet another bulge. Surmount the bulge, then commit to more underclings, past a sporty crux with a bolt, then to a two-bolt belay at a stance. Left of the belay, mantle chickenheads onto the slab above, then up and right past a short, slanting finger crack. Clip the first of four bolts, then launch into the steep-slab Kung-Fu above, past a scary--yet solid--flake, and to a wild finish on chickenheads. Run it out on an easy slab to the two-bolt anchor above. Brilliant! Who knew such line still existed in the canyon?
Submitted by: matthelj on 2010-09-16
Route ID: 106626