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Hand Drills Suck 5.9 ** - 5.9

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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One Black Metolius Cam, One yellow Metolius Cam, Quickdraws, One 60 meter Rope
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Climb up the slab to an old bolt. Above this angle up and LEFT via a finger crack. Right before the finger crack begins to end, slot a horizontal Yellow tcu, then climb straight up through slopers and chickenheads. (There isn't a crack near this section) Angle up and RIGHT (5.6) towards a fixed long knifeblade. The route is obvious from here as it climbs up then arches LEFT through a clean slab shield past three bolts to a two bolt chain anchor. A 60 meter rope barely gets you back to the ground. Very clean enjoyable climbing with excellent protection. Possibly the best bolts in LCC (1/2 rawls with FIXE hangers)

Submitted by: stroker on 2003-10-13
Views: 437
Route ID: 42456