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Standard Thumb - ex-squeeze me traverse - 5.9

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
not much
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

I wasn't the first to climb it....(so I shouldn't name it) but might as well tell you about it. I hate chimneys... but, I really hate squeeze chimneys. From the chockstone belay in the trough you can climb up to a small flake. After placing a piece, climb out of the trough and traverse accross thin/loose friction to the 5.9R groove and finish the pitch. The friction is thin and the rock isn't very good, but it beats a squeeze chimney anyday. Difficulty is only an estimate, and requires a second / third opinion.

Submitted by: k9rocko on 2002-07-30
Views: 942
Route ID: 21230

2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: tylerphillips on 2002-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

hAVEN\'T DONE IT BUT K9ROCKO LACKS DISIPLINE AS THIS (STANDERD THUMB)IS A FINE CHIMMINEY, ITS ALL IN THE TECHNICE MAN

Added: 2002-10-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: k9rocko on 2002-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

On my first failed attempt of the thumb, my partner leading up the trough was looking very unhappy...... Finally, he said "SLACK" and started accross some scabby friction.....<p>

It wasn't until I followed him that I realized that he had nothing to protect the chimney, and was forced to climb to another route he could protect. <p>

With hindsight, I agree this is the best option. Squeeze chimneys are fine if you like offwidths and have big-bros.... but otherwise offwidths are like rotten gypsy armpits.

Witnessed by: alpinerocket
Added: 2002-07-28