The easiest route on the thumb, I can't remember how many pitches, probably 6-8. Some good climbing, but lots of grovelling down low. But its a good/moderate way to get up the thumb. Route finding ability a must.
Submitted by: benjo on 2001-10-12
Route ID: 5009
we climbed the nose, tried to climbed the thumb, and ended up climbing the ass. We got lost immediately due to a set of bolt anchors at the base of the first pitch. This threw us off by one pitch for the rest of the climb. We were off route constantly. We ended up on S-Crack, realized it was too hard, rappelled, down climbed back on route, only to have more route finding difficulties higher up. Overall we climbed pitch one (really zero), two (really one), tree (really two), and four (really three). Expect to grovel on the real pitch two by dynoing from tree to tree. No need for much gear at the beginning because there are rap slings everywhere due to constant bailing. Our true mistake was not scrambling high enough near the plumb line wall. After reaching lunch ledge we ate our 8 hour old egg McMuffins and rappelled down. Good times.
we did it in shorts and windbreakers in March. Topped out just before sunset and proceeded on an epic 8 hour-single-headlamp-inthesnow-in-chacos descent. Puts this whole "climbing" thing into perspective.