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Standard Thumb - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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A set of cams to #4 camalot and a set of stoppers
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.17/5
  Scenery 4.17/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

The easiest route on the thumb, I can't remember how many pitches, probably 6-8. Some good climbing, but lots of grovelling down low. But its a good/moderate way to get up the thumb. Route finding ability a must.

Submitted by: benjo on 2001-10-12
Views: 1259
Route ID: 5009

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: captaincrimp on 2011-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Misery loves company

we climbed the nose, tried to climbed the thumb, and ended up climbing the ass. We got lost immediately due to a set of bolt anchors at the base of the first pitch. This threw us off by one pitch for the rest of the climb. We were off route constantly. We ended up on S-Crack, realized it was too hard, rappelled, down climbed back on route, only to have more route finding difficulties higher up. Overall we climbed pitch one (really zero), two (really one), tree (really two), and four (really three). Expect to grovel on the real pitch two by dynoing from tree to tree. No need for much gear at the beginning because there are rap slings everywhere due to constant bailing. Our true mistake was not scrambling high enough near the plumb line wall. After reaching lunch ledge we ate our 8 hour old egg McMuffins and rappelled down. Good times.

Added: 2011-07-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dig_scott on 2011-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Winter or spring?

Climbed to lunch ledge via S-crack. Aided through the crux. Chimneys had ice and the troughs full of snow. Left some booty on the last bolt for who ever is next.

Added: 2011-02-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: selahkraft on 2008-03-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars shorts in march

we did it in shorts and windbreakers in March. Topped out just before sunset and proceeded on an epic 8 hour-single-headlamp-inthesnow-in-chacos descent. Puts this whole "climbing" thing into perspective.

Added: 2008-03-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: JoshP on 2005-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Scary!!

Probably the most "out there" I have ever felt in my life, an adventure for sure. We did the Indecent Exposure Variation, which allegedly avoids some unpleasantries in favor of some fun tree climbing.

I had a 4.5 camalot, and was hella glad on the trough and squeeze pitches. Bring it if you have it, and are timid on off-widths.

The descent is wild, but really fun in a sick way. I am ready to go do this one again, after two years to forget about it.

Added: 2007-08-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: southtxtraveler on 2007-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Hot in July

Bring extra water in the summer, the descent sucks!

Added: 2007-08-23

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