Started hiking from alpine 6:00 am, got a bit lost and we ended on the backside of ? mark wall where we rapped down. We started climbing around noon. You have to do a bit of scrambling to get to the start of pitch one. The first pitch is short and easy but the belay station at the top sucks. Pitch two is a flaring shallow offwidth that's no fun to climb and less fun to protect, with a good belay ledge up top. Pitch 3 pretty easy, lots of flakes, good belay ledge. Pitch 4 is the hardest and the nicest, the triple overhangs were scary for me, but the hand crack following is the best 100 ft of the climb. Once completing the climb we scrabled another 100 ft or so to the summit for a great 360 view. Total climbing time was about 4 hours. Then we rapped, packed our shit and literally ran down most of the mountain back towards our car. Total trip time was about 14 hours, quite a long day. Sun up to sun down burleyness
Climbed this route with 3 people. Took the Alpine Route in taking 6 hours to the base. Slept overnight at cirque base. You might want to belay someone across the snow fields at the base of the wall. An exposed fall here would result in a broken something. Pitch 1 (5.8) PG13. Climb up the flakes on the left and traverse right into Vertical smile crack. Climb up approx. 20 feet and make a airy friction move back into the left crack. Follow the offwidth to the top of the first block with minimal pro. Pitch 2 5.6 Good pro. Pitch 3 5.10A Great protection the whole way, awesome roofs and hand jams. Pitch 4 5.4 I was surprised to see another 100 feet of climbing to the top above Pitch 3 since the guide books didn't really elaborate on it.