Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 2007
This route is two routes to the right of Horror Show and about also two routes to the left of Simple Truths. It is found by looking for the route with numerous glue in bolts used....mostly for belays. Equipped partly from the ground up and partly from above, it is pretty consistent in the mid 5.10 grade, though the third pitch is 5.10c/d.
Also, the U type glue in bolt belay on the top of the fifth pitch (the only hanging belay, but not needed as a rap station) has a "wall register" attached to record visitor's comments and slander! Good fun! Please be careful removing and re-applying the top of the container so that this small booklet can be protected and maintained.
The route can easily be rappelled with one rope. #6 to #4 to #3 to ground
Submitted by: etrier on 2009-05-03
Route ID: 92301
I have heard the consensus frm others that it is more likely consistent 5.10c/d on the crux sections rather than 5.11. Is this correct? I agree that the upper crack corner pitch can be made less painful if one tapes the hands....preserve your blood!
The first three pitches on this wall, no matter the route, are great. After that, the rock can be brutal on the fingers and hands. The 3rd, 4th and 6th pitches are all equally stiff, requiring completely different climbing. 3rd is fun face problems requiring balance. The 4th is a an awesome roof-corner issue, the 6th is a really nasty sharp steep corner that is sure to make you bleed. I love the area. Really surprising setting to be sure.