This is most likely the best crack route in the canyon. This route is hidden in a dihedral, directly above (west) of the sand dunes parking lot and latrine area. The approach takes about 3-5 minutes. The route overhangs, and the crack gets thinner as you climb. Start with 3.5", the end with fingers. There's a trick to this route, you will see.
Submitted by: triznut on 2003-12-29
Route ID: 9990
really fun #3bd to #2 to thumbstack very steep but with good stemming easy to protect if you have the gear even if you arent a 5.11 climber get on it hang place gear get the TR super fun interesting movement 3#3 bd, 1-2#2, 1 #1, .75 OPT mostly wide hands so tape em or scrape em
By far our best single pitch trad route at any St. George crag. A combination of stemming and hanging crack moves lands you to the final crux section where it is a trick to sink a finger jam. Tough (but well protected) and beautiful overhanging crack. We walked past a rattler right off the trail this night, curled up for the evening. A fun day with my new Irish friends and Joe. Thank god Stacy showed up after my run at it. It was not pretty.