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Wooden Hammer - 5.8

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Double ropes might save you a rap. We took two raps to get to the ground on doubles. Double ropes will help on rope drag to combine those 2nd and 3rd pitches as well. You need several pieces of medium to large gear for the first two pitches which is all t
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Wooden Hammer is a dirty route that rarely gets climbed but is easy to identify on the wall by the route photo provided. There exists some real precarious varnish you must rely on to pull yourself out of two separate chimneys that are joined, but fractured. 1st Pitch- (100’) 5.8/ The first pitch starts out with two run-out bolts and then moves over a short mossy section into the first chimney. You can sling a feature at the base of the chimney with a girth hitch and then wander up easy ground into the deep chasm. It is impossible to protect down low in this section. You have to climb up to where the chimney starts to close over the top of you and sink a larger piece here. Then study the questionable holds on the right wall as you commit from the chimney over to the wall and proceed on easy, but suspect holds to the top of this first chimney. Continue on easy ground into the second chimney were the horned owl debris is. 2nd Pitch- (80’) 5.8+/ This second chimney is a squeeze play up to suspect holds again to pull yourself up and over onto easier ground. The same issue exists as it did with the first pitch, it is difficult to protect low. You are quite committed by the time you can protect the pitch. Although sucked into the chimney at first, do not go all the way, you will not fit through the key hole deep inside. Come back out and reach up onto a huge, but fractured, piece of varnish and do your best to weight your moves accordingly. Once you make a move or two to gain the top of the chimney, you can breathe again. 3rd Pitch- (50’) 5.7/ The third pitch can be combined with this second pitch which is what I recommend. Easy climbing through a hole formed by a massive chock stone and up a featured crack on the left to the top of Prophesy Wall.

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The guidebook recommends walking off north. However, once you top out, you can traverse west to a set of chains, about 15 meters on top of “The Roofs of Jericho”. There will be another set of chains less than half way down on top of an arch. Double ropes

Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-14
Views: 672
Route ID: 86493

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