This is a great introduction to big wall climbing. The climbing is easy and there is lots of fixed gear. Don't bring a hammer. Maybe a hook or two but you don't really need them. The start of pitch 4, has three headless bolts, so you'll need hangers of some sort. HB offsets are crucial.
Submitted by: funk29 on 2004-05-13
Route ID: 5016
The route is shaded all day, it made climbing it perfect with a long sleeve shirt. can easily be done in a day. It goes really fast due to all the fixed gear on it. On last pitch the "crux" placement before the last hook move. forget about a large tricam, just use an offset micro cam just below it.
1st - went to solo it, forgot my steps. slow party got the jump on me. bailed 2nd - over slept on shortest day of year. tried to do it in a day. bailed 3rd - rained off 7th pitch 4th - finally, stuck it in 7 hrs
pretty good route, with short sections of C2 on pitches 3, 4, 6, 7; protecting blown out pin scars within 10 feet or so of bomber piece. I used a hook 4 ot 5 times. All hook placements were bomber "enhanced." The aid is a bit trickier than moonlight.