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The gypsy's curse - 5.10c

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Rock (Trad)
Double set green alien to #4. Second pitch contains a long stretch of wide hands to fists at 5.10
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Follow trail further than you might think. Gypsy's curse is in an alcove above a tall pin tree. At this spot, the trail has been on good solid ground, while the cliff base heads upward. Right before Gypsy, the ground becomes loose, and the cliff base suddenly drops about 20 ft. Do not descend, but walk out on a ledge above the tree, and start at a double crack near other crack (feast of snakes) Pitch 1 5.10 Follow crack upward until you must tunnel. go up chimney on far side of pillar. Pitch 2 Follow long fingers to fist crack in corner 150 ft. Pitch 3 Continue up what is now a chimney. After about 30 ft, one can continue up a narrowing chimney, or step right onto the arete and follow this for about 30 ft to protectable features. Above, there is a bolt to get you into a corner crack, then more thought provoking climbing to the anchor. 150 ft 5.10 R. (Heading up the narrow chimney would also be unprotected, but more secure, and a whole lot less fun). four pitch. Head up andleft. The route ends before the huge nasty OW roof. 90 ft 5.8

Descent Options:

Rappel route with two ropes. 200 ft to ledge from top of second pitch

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2013-03-31
Views: 190
Route ID: 113559